EOS 1Dx shutter test!
Remember when a small coffee was just a small coffee? Our choices have multiplied to include the impossibly complex tall triple nonfat, no foam latte. Camera shopping has likewise gained in complexity. If you're shopping for a big sensor camera, your options are many - mirrorless or traditional DSLR? Four Thirds or APS sensor? EVF or LCD only?
Whether you're shopping for yourself or someone else, searching for a camera is more confusingthanever. We're going to break down some of the advantages and disadvantages of each big sensor sensor to help you put the right camera in the right hands.
Big Sensor? Big Deal.
Is a bigger sensor better? In many ways, yes. For our purposes, we'll call a Four Thirds sensor, and anything larger, a ‘big sensor.' Compacts like the Canon PowerShot G12 and even the ILC Pentax Q offer sensors larger than that of a typical point-and-shoot, but for now, let's focus on Four Thirds and bigger. What advantages do they offer?
Combine all the advantages of a big sensor and put them into a camera approximately the size of a point and shoot and you'll get a powerful but compact package. That's the type of camera that professionals are asking for as a backup, or as their leisure camera.
So then why have a big camera in the first place?
Traditional DSLRs: Big Sensor, Big Camera
Big cameras, like the Canon 5D Mk II, Nikon D7000 and Sony A580 all have advantages over mirrorless cameras. For starters, the bigger cameras sometimes use larger full frame sensors: which are almost the size of an exposure of 35mm film. Besides being able to currently house larger sensors, they also have other advantages.
Cameras with mirrors and pentaprisms all use phase detection focusing. Phase detection is extremely quick and also very smart in focusing on a particular subject based on the user's composition of the scene. At the time of this writing, phase detection is the only system that can quickly focus the large and heavy f/2.8 zoom lenses. When they switch into contrast detection mode (Live View) they focus significantly slower. If you need faster focus with lenses that many professionals call their bread and butter, then DSLRs are for you.
The exceptions to this rule are the Sony line of cameras with a translucent sensor, such as the Alpha A77 we previewed this fall. They don't have a pentaprism, but do have a translucent mirror. Because of this, you get an electronic viewfinder. Depending on who you ask, this is either a good or bad feature. Indeed, many people prefer to see through the lens optically, and not electronically. For that reason, the pentaprism is preffered.
Big cameras like a DSLR are currently able to take more punishment in real life shooting environments and situations. For example, no mirrorless camera at the moment has weather sealing. In contrast, DSLRs with weather sealing can be used in inclement weather. Still though, most people would not take their camera out into the rain unless you are an Olympus or Pentax shooter. The high end cameras made by these two companies can endure punishment like no other. In fact, I buried an Olympus E-5 in the snow for 10 minutes and it still worked. I've also shot on assignment in the worst blizzard NYC has ever seen with one.
If you're talking about entry-level DSLRs like the Canon Rebels, their advantage still lies in the large line of lenses that they can use and still be able to autofocus.
Mirrorless ILCs: Big Sensor, Small Camera
Cameras with a smaller body but bigger sensor aren't necessarily geared for professionals, but they are designed to offer DSLR and professional image quality. Enthusaists, semi-professionals, and people that want to get their feet wet with interchangeable lens cameras might be best suited for this class.
The major design difference with these cameras is their lack of a pentaprism and mirror. Instead, what the lens sees directly hits the sensor. These cameras are often called:
These cameras use the Contrast Detection focusing system which, up until now, has been very slow. Olympus, Panasonic and Sony have made large strides in improving the system to the point where they say that the speed rivals and even bests those of top end phase detection cameras. They've even proven themselves to be steller performers in low light focusing situations.
One of the chief strengths of the cameras with interchangeable lenses is the fact that they can adapt nearly any lens due to the lack of a mirror. This has created a lust for vintage lenses that has spread like wildfire across eBay and Craigslist. It also meant that photographers with older cameras could finally use their lenses in the digital age.
Situations where we have seen these mirrorless cameras really take off is in street photography and videography: with cameras like the Fuji X100, Olympus EP3 and Panasonic GH2 pioneering the front. For more, consider reading this posting on how to use your CILC like a pro.
1. Keep it light
Opt for mirrorless 'four-thirds' cameras such as Olympus PEN - EP3 and Sony NEX (which was used to take the image above) give DSLR quality images for a quarter of the weight.
2. Get a good bag
Protect your gear with padded bags - there's nothing worse than a busted camera you have to lug around. Look for brands like Domke, Billingham and Lowepro.
3. Megazoom lenses mean one lens for everything
Taking just one lens with you when you travel will save you sapce and weight. Look for the 18-270mm Tamron for Canon, Nikon and Sony.
4. Use reliable cards to record your images
The last thing you want after your trek of a lifetime is to experience a corrupt card and lost pictures. Sandisc Ultra and Extreme Cards set the benchmark. Make sure you have enough to see you through. No space on cards means a useless camera.
5. Filters are essential
Every lens should have a filter to protect the front element and cut down UV Haze. Pro 1 Digital from Hoya are the best quality and price. You may also like to add a polarizer for rich blue skies.
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Good care of your Eos-1dx DSLR camera should be important for it to function properly. Here are a few tips for to help you do just that.
- Clean your lens with a lint free cloth. Do not use towels, shirts, or socks. These items can scratch your lens and in turn this will affect the quality of your pictures. Always have a lens cap on your camera when not using it.
- Storage of your camera is very important. Avoid storing your camera in extreme temperatures of hot and cold. Store your camera in a place that is cool and dust free. You can purchase special storage for your camera but it can get up there in price.
- When in transport with your camera be sure and carry it in a bag that will protect it from extreme weather or if you drop the camera by accident. A bag containing some sort of cushion in the sides and bottom of the bag is best.
- When cleaning the inside of your camera to remove dust do not use cloth or any type of chemical. Use air instead so you do not damage internal parts. Be sure you also the camera mirrors before cleaning.
We hope these few tips help when cleaning your Canon EOS-1DX DSLR.
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Because of their size and the heavy glass components inside, large lenses are subject to something known as 'zoom creep' where they have the tendency to extend or collapse under their own weight when pointed upwards or downwards. In some situations the problem can be easily solved by just holding the zoom ring, but other times you might need a specialized tool.
Usually that specialized tool is nothing more than a couple of elastic bands wrapped around the lens to hold the ring in place, but let's be honest here, that solution is far from aesthetically pleasing. So for just $5 the Lens Band, made from high grade silicone rubber, does exactly the same thing, but in a variety of different colors. Including black if you want to use one but don't want it to stick out like a sore thumb. It's designed to work with lenses from all the major manufacturers, including Nikon and Canon, but as far as I can tell it's a 'one size fits all' kind of deal so you don't need a different one for every lens in your kit. Of course, if you've supported any kind of charity over the past three years, you're probably already wearing multiple Lens Bands at this very moment.
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As I walked through the annual PDN PhotoPlus show at the Javits Center in New York yesterday, I was struck by how much attention small cameras with interchangeable lenses are receiving. Such cameras aren't quite digital single-lens reflex cameras (DSLRs); they lack the mirror systems and often the sensors of their larger brethren. The concept started to get popular a few years ago, with the Micro Four Thirds cameras introduced by Olympus and Panasonic. Olympus’s PEN line has been among the most attractive, including the E-P3. Panasonic was at the show with its recent choice, the Lumix DMC-LX5. Both seem like solid entries, but the Micro Four Thirds sensor is smaller than the APS-C sensor you'll find in most SLRs, at about 220mm2 compared with the more standard APS-C sensor. The number of lenses isn't as great, either. On the other hand, these cameras tend to be lighter, and thus easier to carry, as well as less expensive. Sony was next into the fray with its Alpha NEX line, which moves up to a 23.5 by 15.6mm APS-C sensor. At the show, Sony promoted two new models: its 16-megapixel NEX-5N and its upcoming 24MP NEX-7, which adds an XGA OLED electronic viewfinder. It's more expensive and some of the lenses can get quite large, but it looked reasonably strong. Samsung's Entry was the NX 200, based on a 20MP APS-C sensor. This wasn't on the show floor, but should be out shortly. Even the biggest names in cameras are now getting a shot in the action. Nikon entered the market with two cameras in its Nikon 1 series, both featuring one-inch sensors. The two models are the consumer-focused J1 and the enthusiast V1, both 10MP models. The big difference seems to be the inclusion of an electronic viewfinder and a magnesium alloy body on the V1. Nikon emphasizes the speed of these cameras. Of course, there is still plenty of action with the bigger cameras, as Canon introduces the EOS-1D X. This has an 18MP full-frame sensor and can shoot 12 frames per second. It looks great, but at nearly $7,000, it's meant for professionals. For us mere mortals looking for SLRs, there are other choices in the Canon Rebel line (T3i), Nikon's D3000 and 5000 (D5100), and Sony's Alpha line. The new smaller interchangeable lens cameras aren't really meant to compete with these. Instead, they are positioned as a step up from compact cameras, but without the weight of the SLRs. As such, they look really good and are improving in a flash.
Professional photographers around the world are getting ready to cough up $6,800 come March 2012. That’s when the newly announced Canon EOS-1D X professional digital SLR is slated to start shipping. The new full-frame dSLR not only replaces 2007’s similarly priced full-frame 1Ds Mark III, but Canon has also ramped up performance so much that the camera will also replace the speedy 1D Mark IV aimed at sports photography that sells for a couple grand less and uses an APS-H sized sensor.
Other key features Eos-1dx include:
As I’ve been using my iPhone 4S instead of the Canon SD1400IS for my all-purpose point and shoot camera and I’ve noticed something: the camera lens is in the wrong place.
Apple introduced a handy new feature with the iPhone 4S and iOS 5 – using the volume buttons as a shutter release. Now you can hold the iPhone in landscape mode and place your finger on the volume button and shoot a picture by pressing the button. When you do, with the volume button on the top, the lens is on the lower right corner of the phone. It just feels off to me.
I tried shooting with the lens on the upper left with the volume buttons on the bottom. You have to use your thumb to press the volume button and that’s awkward, but helps me frame shots better. Shooting this second way is still a bit problematic, as my fingers keep getting in the way of the lens. Neither way of holding the iPhone 4S to shoot pictures is convenient because of the placement of the lens.
As lenses on smartphones get better and phones become thinner, the placement of the lens may become even more problematic. I wish all smartphone makers would consider the lens placement in their designs. The optimum placement would be equidistant from both long edges and at least a third of the way over from the shorter edge of the phone
The camera on the iPhone 4S is so good I want to use it more. I’ve found that the best way to hold the camera is to have the volume buttons on the bottom and place your thumb over one to take a shot. Put your left index finger on the top with your other three fingers away from the phone. This solves the old finger in the shot problem. Hold your thumb along the bottom edge with the lower right corner resting flush with your hand. Put your index finger along the top edge and use your ring finger behind the phone to hold it in place as it rests against the back of the phone. This gives me the least amount of shake while shooting photos and keeps my fingers out of the frame. Having the lens on top makes framing photos less awkward. I tap the screen with my left finger to focus holding the phone firmly with my right hand.
If using your thumb to press the button feels strange to you, then you can reverse this to use your right finger to press the volume button with it on the top instead of the bottom.
We at GottaBeMobile agree that all phones should allow you to use the volume button as a shutter release instead of a zoom function, as some Android phones do. It also makes more sense to have the lens placed so that the buttons are on top, just as is the lens. Even better: phones should move the lens further towards the center of the back of the phone like it would be on a point and shoot camera.
Tell Me What You Think, It Is OR Is It Not In The Wrong Place Leve a coment below Thanks
